Tri-Angle Diamond Sharpener - White

This additional set of sharpening "stones" for the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker (actually they are a pair of hollow steel triangles coated in industrial diamonds) sorted out knives that were particularly dodgy (having been through the AnySharp Knife Sharpener -- not recommended!). A worthwhile addition to the main device.

1. Mark the edge with a Sharpie felt pen.2. Apex the edge (you know when this is done when the sharpie is gone from the apex). I just lean my diamond stone on the sharpmaker rod for the correct angle. It takes about 10 to 20 passes on the diamond stone (compared to 200/300 passes on the brown stone).3. 10 to 20 passes on the brown stone with lighter and lighter pressure.4. 10 to 20 passes on the white stone with lighter and lighter pressure.5. The super light pressure helps remove any burr. No pressure at all, and you can feel and hear the burr being removed.Removal of the burr is crucial for long lasting sharpness.The Sharpmaker is an under rated sharpener. The brown and white stones are great for keeping your knives sharp with regular touch ups. But, after a while you will need to reprofle or reset the back bevel. This takes a very long time with just the brown stones. It takes hundreds of passes to apex the blade. What would happen for me in this circumstance was I would become inattentive due to boredom. I would not fully apex the edge. This lead to poor results.

This is the missing part of a Sharpmaker. The brown stones don't cut aggressively enough to remove nicks or change the profile angle of an edge. What would take an hour with the brown stones is a few minutes with these. I use the large DMT diamond plates for sharpening woodworking tools, so I'm used to not using heavy pressure. Some reviewers have said the diamonds fall off. Not for me with light pressure. Once you have used diamonds, you will quickly grow impatient with anything else for coarse sharpening. I use the diamonds, then side of brown stones, then side of white stones. I don't use the edges for anything except serrations if they fit, or the occasional hooked blade.It is true you can buy a nice diamond plate and a 4000 grit Shapton glass stone for about the same money as this plus the sharpmaker, but for ease of use I would recommend this for knives (not chisels or other woodworking tools of course). It's much easier to hold the knife vertically than to try to maintain an angle on a horizontal plate. Some people have built stands to hold their stones or plate at a similar 15 or 20 degree from vertical angle, if that appeals to you.If you are only going to sharpen short pocket knives, an alternative is to buy the lansky-style DMT aligner sharpening kit and get the optional ceramic stone for it if you want a polished edge.In addition to learning to feel for the burr and maintaining a constant angle, it's helpful to have a 10x triplet magnifier and look at the edge after each sharpening step. I see plenty of you tube videos where people will go through six waterstones in a ritual to get an edge, when a few more strokes on half that would remove any scratches with much less time. Look at videos from knife makers, not users - they don't waste time.

Hallo,ich besitze nun seit Jahren den Spyderco Sharpmaker. Leider konnte ich diesen bisher nur eingeschränkt einsetzen, nicht ohne Grund trägt das Produkt inoffiziell den Namen "Sharpkeeper". Das Problem ist nämlich, dass sehr stumpfe Klingen, vielmehr aber Klingen mit einem größeren Schleifwinkel als 40 Grad, nicht effizient mit den zwei unterschiedlichen Körnungen des Sharpmakers geschliffen werden können. Es wird einfach zu wenig Material abgetragen, sodass zum Beispiel bei einem Messer mit 50 Grad nur an den Seiten geschliffen wird, nicht aber unten an der Klinge, wo man einen Grat erreichen möchte.Da der Sharpmaker nur maximal 40 Grad Winkel untersützt, muss man also die Klinge auf 40 Grad schleifen und demzufolge sehr viel Material abtragen. Das funktioniert mit den Diamant-Schleifsteinen super! Ich konnte mit diesen Messer in 10 Minuten auf eine Grundschärfe bringen und endlich einen Grat herstellen.Dazu sei gesagt, dass ich nicht die offizielle Schleiftechnik benutze, sondern für mehr Materialabtragung ungefähr 40 Mal auf einer Seite schleife und hierbei auch mit Kontakt am Stein hochziehe statt nach dem herunterdrücken abzusetzen und neu anzulegen. Danach wechsel ich die Seite und folge daraufhin der Anleitung und schleife wie gewohnt abwechselnd.Kleiner Tipp: um festzustellen, ob man auf einer Seite genug Materiel abgetragen hat kann man mit einem Filzstift die Schneide markieren, wenn die Farbe bis zum Grat weggeschliffen wird kann man aufhören. Auch liegt dem Produkt ein Warnhinweis bei ausdrücklich darauf hinweist, nicht zu viel Druck auf die Klinge auszuüben, da sich sonst die Diamantstückchen lösen können. Mit leichtem Druck wird auch genug Material abgetragen.Ich kann die Diamantsteine nur wärmstens empfehlen, diese sind ein absolutes Muss für jeden Sharpmaker-Besitzer, ohne diese kann man stumpfe Messer nicht effizient schärfen.

Drawing the blade in a downstroke is akin to riding a bicycle down some steps.Instead, I start with the hilt end of the blade on the bottom of the rod and then draw the knife upwards and backwards on each stroke. This is much smoother and easier to develop a feel for what's happening and this motion quickly defines the blade apex and develops a wire burr on the opposite side.I usually start with up to 5 strokes on one side to develop the burr, switch to the other side to knock that burr off and define the other angle, repeat as necessary and taper down to one stroke alternating between sides to achieve a rough working edge. Move to the coarse and then fine or superfine rods to finish the blade.Some steels work best with a coarser, toothier edge while others benefit from additional finishing. An app I found on the Play Store, Knife Steel Composition is helpful. It tells you the steel composition and percentages, a brief history of the steel's purpose and development and often includes comments related to sharpening. Fine grained steels like smoother finishes, larger carbide steels often cut better if left toothier.In any case, I usually finish my blades on a strop, sometimes with compound on the flesh side, sometimes not. This helps to remove traces of the wire burr and finishes the blade edge to a nice smooth cutter.

Indubbiamente costose ma di ottima fattura e di durata molto lunga.Non vedo errori o difetti di sorta (a parte il prezzo, che comunque è legato alla qualità).Il sistema id affilatura è molto semplice e quindi molto pratico anche a persone non completamente in grado di affilare una lama mediante una pietra.

Ces barres ne sont pas données mais elles sont efficaces, j'ai pu récupérer le tranchant d'une lame vraiment très abimée en assez peu de temps, sans forcer (il ne faut surtout pas forcer sur ces tiges sinon elles perdent leurs qualités abrasives)