BOSCH 15716 Premium Original Equipment Oxygen Sensor - Compatible with Select 1990-11 Ford, Jaguar, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercury

Used on a 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4L V8 with 2 valves. Plug and play. No issues.

I have a 1995 Ford F150 with a 302 automatic and wasn't sure if I was buying the right O2 sensor but had read that it was correct. It doesn't quite match the factory one in that the plug's cord it a bit shorter which turned out to be the exact length that I needed because the factory one's cord hung down a little, so if you're replacing an OBD I system F150 this should fit all from '86 to '95 factory exhaust. If you have aftermarket headers you'll need to get an O2 sensor with a longer wire because this is the shortest of the ones shown to fit this application. This is an easy swap...took about 5 minutes...very happy with the product!

I decided to go OEM after trying a cheaper O2 replacement off Amazon. One of the four cheap O2 sensors failed ten months later, and this one cleared the code instantly and has remained for some time now. Now I'm hoping the other 3 cheapo sensors hold out! If not, it's 3 more Bosch OEMs to the rescue.

It's a great replacement for the original. The only problem that I had is that the plug wire is very short....other than that, it does the job.

For a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 XLT auto Flex-fuel. This is the shorter cabled one for bank 2 driver's side (in the USA) for trouble code P1151. The factory original said Bosch and so did this new one. Forget running the engine or heating with a blow torch: spray Liquid Wrench on the old one and go gather your sockets (deep and short); breaker bars or pipe; box wrenches; etc. Then spray more. On my Ranger it was easiest to crawl under and behind the driver's front tire and use a crow's foot wrench to loosen the old sensor but to do that you should take off the transmission control cable bracket: safety brake on and block the tires! This comes with thread compound on it, but no dielectric grease on the electric plug! Stand on a milk crate and reach through the open hood (6 inches to the left of the oil filter) to do the swap and then back under to tighten everything. The goal is simple but swinging a wrench inside that area is hard. The other upstream sensor (for the Ranger at least) is harder to do. That one is on the passenger side (you can turn the wheels all the way over and put your head between the passenger front wheel and look in the triangular hole between the body and frame: it's right there, but you can't put a wrench in that hole. That sensor has a different last number and THE CABLE IS WAY LONGER. That sensor is for a P1131 code (P1151 like this). That's bank 1. There is also a downstream sensor which hasn't failed yet for me. I "heard" that the sensors are all the same but with different length cables. I don't know if that's true. Depending on your vehicle the bank and side you install this on may be different. By the way I got my code (and cleared it) with an ODB2 reader that cost half of what this did. Good luck, Mike from Detroit

Had concerns over the 'fit' when I read some of the descriptions from other parts stores such as AutoZone, Napa, Caps, etc. So, went to the Bosch website and spoke to one of the customer reps who turned out to be quite knowledgeable. He explain to me that the 15716, 15717, and 15718, were all the same sensor, the only difference was in the connecting cable length. So, hope this might clear up any confusion others might have over when they see it could be used 'upstream' or 'downstream'. That said, it was to difficult for me to install so took it to my mechanic and he was amazed at the price (about half of what the parts stores charge). Been installed for a month now and the 'check engine' light hasn't come on at all. I would highly recommend this product..

Third times a charm and this one did it! Works great. Engine light went off. Connected easily. 3rd sensor I e tried and it finally worked!

I installed two of these sensors on my 1999 F250 V10 SD, but the cables were about 4" shorter than the existing ones so needed to extend the wiring on one side so they could reach the plug, and made adjustments to the wiring loom clips on the other. Nothing in the description noted the cable length and only discovered the problem after the sensor was in the exhaust pipe. Otherwise the sensor worked OK.

Fits and works as it should

SENSOR ORIGINAL BOSCH, SE INSTALÓ PERFECTAMENTE A UNA FORD WINDSTAR 2002. YA INSTALADO, BORRÉ EL CÓDIGO DE FALLA Y SIGUE FUNCIONANDO EXCELENTEMENTE.

Herramienta especial para aquellos lugares donde no es posible introducir el ratched, y para mover los tensores y reemplazar las bandas .

Item exactly as described, worked excellent. Vehicle is running just like new.

Lo coupe para un explorer 99 y hasta el momento todo esta trabajando bien aunque me decian que esta pieza no funciona para la misma camioneta