Chain Saw Mill, Model# G777

I purchased this to slab a maple tree using my Stihl Wood Boss chainsaw. The item arrived on time and as described. Assembly and attaching to the chainsaw are simple. You should have a small ratcheting torque wrench, as the bolts that clamp the saw bar and hold the depth platform in place call for specific torque settings. Using rails to get the first cut, slabbing a log is straightforward work, although it's a good workout. It also pays to build a saw buck to hold your logs about 2' off the ground -- your back will thank you (ya' I have a tractor and can cheat using it to lift large logs). I used both 10 degree ripping chains and 30 degree cross cut chains. Ripping chains give a smoother surface, but are a bit slower - just keep them good and sharp. I used this on Stihls with 18" and 36" bars, and it worked perfectly on both. I tried cutting a 30" slab with the 18" bar, cutting from both sides, and it doesn't work very well, so use a saw bar longer than the logs. I also bot the Granberg winch. It works great too, and if you have a lot of slabbing to do, is a sound investment.

Premièrement, c'est très bien fait, les instruction d'assemblage sont très simples et facile. L'appareil est solide et fait aux états-unis. Avant de vous lancer dans le découpage, il est recommandé d'équiper sa scie d'une chaine à fendre verticalement (ripping chain).. La différence est dans le nombre de lame. Il y en a moins donc ça coupe plus franchement le bois. En contre-partie, votre moteur doit être assez puissant. Ceci dit, j'ai une Echo 490, 18", .50gauge, .325"pitch. Le travail était laborieux au début car je voyais que le moteur forçait puis, j'ai trouvé ma vitesse de croisière pour fendre mon bois. Les coupes sont bien droites et je suis très satisfait du travail. Il ne me reste qu'à planner mes planches. Je recommande ce produit sans hésitation.

Excelente producto

This is easy to assemble and fairly easy to use. It does require some practice to get the hang of it, but that really only affects how fast and easy your cuts are, not how they turn out. If you're using a guide for the first cut, you can't really screw it up unless you go out of your way trying to. Some tips: -Make or buy a guide rail system. This is a must for your first cut, no matter how small your log is, you have to make it straight or all other cuts after that will be off. I made rails using 2x4's and use lag bolts to secure it to the end. You can buy the rails from granberg, but they are expensive. -There are lots of videos on youtube of people using the system in different configurations. Take some time and watch a bunch of them, get to know some do's and do not's by watching other people. Lots of good ideas out there. -Use wedges, even for small logs. The clamping force of gravity slows you down and squeezes the blade and that's bad for lots of reasons. -Get a small torque wrench. You don't want to over torque the screws holding your saw bar in place, you could bend it. 10-12 lbs max according to the instructions, so you have to have a wrench that goes that light. -Debark your logs. Cleaner and easier on your chain. -MOST IMPORTANT: Get a ripping chain. I did my first two logs with a standard crosscut chain that came with my Stihl. It worked, but it was a long, slow and very tiring process. I got the ripping chain and it was slightly faster, but a hell of a lot easier (for me and my saw.) I ordered mine from Granberg's website. They give you step by step instructions for how to order it so you get it right. FYI for chainsaw beginners, these are rough cuts, if you want finished boards, you will need to run them through a planer a couple of times.

Very nice product. I used it with my rancher 455, worked great for relatively small projects. Well worth the cost. Good setup that it holds the bar securely. I used it with a 20 inch bar, and just regular chain. Plexiglass is a nice bonus to avoid more sawdust.