BLACK PLASTIC WELDER

Stinks to high heaven, but is set in 5 minutes. Messy to use if you are using their little stick to apply the epoxy with. I ended up using a small plastic putty knife, and it worked like a charm for the area I wanted covered. The one side will continue to come out the plunger even after you stop pushing on it. Be ready for a mess it you don't cap it off quickly. I used this on a pvc wall panel and a corner joint. Worked perfectly and is very sturdy. I wish they had a better applicator for this product.

This stuff works great on ABS plastic. I used it to repair a cracked radiator fan shroud, which has split about 3/4 down the side. I had some reservations, based on some of the other reviews - as well as a review I saw on YouTube by the Project Farm guy. However, I decided to give it a shot and see how it worked. I started by cleaning the plastic shroud with isopropyl alcohol, then used a little brush to make sure the plastic was clean. I then mixed the glue on a paper plate using a little popsicle stick. I think the trick to this glue is to really mix it well. I read a lot of other review were people were complaining that the glue didn't come out evenly or it didn't work. In my case, the glue came out just fine, but if one side or the other is coming out al little more, you just have to shift the pressure on the plunger over to the other side to help equalize things. ** Very important: make sure you remove the built in stirring stick from between the plunger part, otherwise the it's hard to get the glue to come out smoothly. I mixed the glue up really well.. all back and forth, sideways and up and down. Then used the stick to spread it over the ABS plastic of my radiator fan shroud. I used 2 or 3 applications, but even just the first one did the trick. I was totally dry in about 30 to 45 minutes when I checked. It even glued to the wood (the stick I used to mix) and the paper plate. Those two ended up bonded together for life. So it's pretty impressive how fast it setup and how well it worked on the plastic. After applying the 3rd coat, I put some force on the plastic shroud and it didn't budge. I have to give this stuff 5 stars. It setup quickly and seemed to bond very well to the ABS. I wasn't expecting it to work as well as it did actually. It's a plus that it's a nice solid black color also, as it matches black plastic parts a lot better than some of the other glues out there.

I love this stuff. Good price, have been able to fix everything I ever tried to fix with it. Dries quickly, not to messy, sticks to everything. Very strong.

"Wow! It’s only 30 degrees out, but after hitting hard ice and chipping my front bumper, this stuff saved me. All the inner plastic clips had snapped off, leaving my bumper dangling. I used the black plastic weld, held it in place for 30 minutes, and now it’s rock hard. I highly recommend this product!"

First off, you need to know what type of plastic you are using this to repair. If the plastic is not specifically listed, it probably won't work with it. This product claims to adhere (stick) to: Rigid materials including ABS, acrylic, fiberglass, FRP, glass, PVC, SMC, steel, styrene, vinyl, and wood. It also specifically says it WILL NOT bond to polyethylene and polypropylene plastics. This includes HDPE (high density polyethylene) which is used in a LOT of products. If the product has a recycle mark on it, it will tell you what class of plastic it is, or mit may just say ABS or HDPE. Next, you need to make sure whatever you are repairing will be worth the $10 or so that you're going to pay for this product, since you need to consider it a one-time use option. The Plastic Welder CAN be stored once opened, but not for long before the black side will dry up and be useless. If you keep it somewhere cool, you will have better longevity storing it. Once you are sure it will work with your plastic, and it will be worth the investment to try to repair it, be sure to properly clean and prep the surfaces. Alcohol is good enough to clean most surfaces. Once both surfaces are clean, mix equal parts together and apply just enough to both surfaces that when you press them together there will be some squeeze out all around. Press them together, and wipe away any squeeze out. If you can, HOLD the 2 parts together for 5 minutes to ensure a good bond. It doesn't take a lot of pressure, just hold them together. Once 5 minutes has passed, it should be set, and you can put it somewhere to allow it to fully cure. The stated cure time is 10 minutes, I would give it at least 30 minutes to an hour (or as long as you can stand to wait). If the plastic parts will be under stress, you may need to reinforce the joint by melting some steel into the plastic to bridge one side to the other. You can use a strip of iron mesh (like metal speaker grills are made of) or you can use a soldering iron and staples or paperclips if there is enough depth to melt them into it. Straight pieces of steel won't help. if you use mesh, no worries. If you use a paperclip or staples, you will need to put some small bends in it to make a zip-zag shape. I have used this product a few times. It works great on ABS plastic. For simple repairs, or to reinforce, or reshape a part, it work great. If it is something that needs to work under stress, you might want to consider "Hot staple welding wire" - just search for it on Amazon. Kits start at $20-$30 that include the Plastic Welder Gun.

I have been using this for years now and it works fantastic. I have used it on hard plastics and PVC pipe but it will work on many other materials and when its dry it keeps its bond and I have never had something re-crack or break once applied. Make sure to keep from freezing and follow directions. Most important make sure surface to be bonded is properly prepared or may not bond correctly. I hope no one changes formula on this and ruins it.

I read an article that did a test on adhesives to glue plastic car bumper covers and this was their #1 choice. I ordered it and used it to glue plastic lock tabs that were originally secured with melted tabs that has broke off to the back side of the bumper cover. I roughed up both surfaces for "bite" and glued them together. After allowing to dry I unclamped them and with a simple tug the pieces separated. I was also able to just peel off the dried adhesive. Total failure.

This is the best plastic weld epoxy glue that I used so far. My favorite used to be Devcon plastic epoxy but then seems like they discontinued it. Had not found a better one since. Tried JB, Loctite, Gorilla and a few more I can't recall. When I tried Permatex black plastic welder, it had the exact same unique horrible toxic like smell as Devcon. Performed equally well. Most of the smell does go away when it's dry. Do yourself a favor and use it in a well ventilated area and not in the house. That smell can linger. I usually take the item I need to glue out in the garage with the garage door open and the smell still gets to me. It is a two part mixture. Mix the two parts well otherwise when it dries it will not harden as well. Throw any leftover mixture in your outside garbage can because that oder is strong. Didn't give it 5 stars because the cap doesn't close properly. It will not snap shut. First time I used it I taped up the cap but after 1 month, it dried up. Bought a new tube a year later and the cap still has the same defect. This time, I wrapped a rubber band to hold the cap tightly. Hopefully it will not dry up again.

Need to fix a broken front bumper tab , this foes exactly what it says , worth the money

Bardzo trwały i szybko wiąże, tubka prosta w użyciu, jedyny minus to podwójna kapka, która nie trzyma się po nałożeniu i trzeba czekać aż klej ją złapie